Of course most guides are not trying to free a stuck rope. He began working with Paul Petzoldt, the legendary mountaineer and climbing instructor, in Mr. Petzoldt's guide service in Grand Teton National Park, and took over the service in 1955. Sign up to receive local, breaking news alerts as they become available. That will happen annually. "Our business has grown. An Exum Mountain Guide died Saturday morning on the descent from the Grand Teton. Turner and others gave the following account of the events leading up to the incident. Search reviews. A fund for Gardners family has been set up at a Ridgeway, CO bank. 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Please note: Online comments may also run in our print and memories of Gary, see the Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure Facebook Today, skilled guides train clients of all ages to experience the mountains. publications. He acted the same way with his children as with his clients and with everyone. 1/2 is rated for body weight only, but 9/16 is rated for a fall. After the chaperone rappelled, Falk planned to retrieve one of the devices with the belay rope. We will update this story as new information becomes available. He had been guiding with Exum for 17 years and had been a professional for 28. Please contact the developer of this form processor to improve this message. The Exum Mountain Guide company says Gary Falk, 42, a native of Ouray, Colo., was leading a group down from a successful ascent of Grand Teton National Park's highest peak when he fell at 10:30 a.m. Saturday about 2,400 feet from the top of the Owen-Spalding rappel into Valhalla Canyon near the Black Ice Couloir, the Jackson Hole News & Guide told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four Stay up to date with the latest Exum adventures and news by following us on your favorite social media sites. Based in the Wasatch Range near Salt Lake and Park City since 1993, Utah Mountain Adventures (UMA) is the premier full-spectrum, year-round guide service in Utah. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years of experience in Wyoming. page. After guiding and teaching for 80 years, Exum Mountain Guides enjoys an unmatched reputation for excellence. Falk leaves behind a wife and two young sons. Like Thoreau and Muir, Turner has contemplated the essential nature of a landscape. This would be consistent with leaning out on a lanyard that fails, the report said. Even though the server responded OK, it is possible the submission was not processed. Guides and clients went to sleep as the headlamp party descended. Be truthful. Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyomings Occupational Safety and Health Administration. However rockfall from above or a falling cliet could take down an untied guide. All Rights Reserved. Did you encounter any technical issues? As Falk hauled it up, the device became wedged in a crack just [Photo] Tom Santoro, "Needless to say, we're all devastated," Turner said Sunday from Grand Teton National Park. "He was one of the most smiley guys you ever saw.". Please turn off your CAPS LOCK. Please log in, or sign up for a new account and purchase a subscription to read or post comments. As for Falk, he was a beloved person and one of the best guides in this country, Patridge said. No political attacks. was hauling up from below. According to the Jackson Hole News&Guide, 42-year-old Gary Falk died after falling 2,400 feet from the top of the Owen-Spalding rappell into Valhalla Canyon. O n October 5, Alex Lowe, the 40-year-old mountaineer from Bozeman, Montana, whom this magazine called the world's finest climber, perished in an avalanche on . racist or sexually-oriented language. 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Keith even 16mm tubular tape has a breaking strain of 14kn bits of your body will pop before that breaks !! One of the guides awoke about 3 a.m. to find Gardner's sleeping bag empty. He was very diligent, very mindful and very aware of all the risks. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. Guides organized, made phone calls, and set out for the mountain. Things happen but as Jeff Lowe once said, Even objective hazards are no excuse for accidents.. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a spotlight on Jackson Hole's crime, justice and emergency news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of healthcare and wellness news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years of experience. Refrain from using negative From their base in Grand Teton National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum Mountain Guides provide guided climbing trips throughout . But light from a set of headlamps appeared on the descent route from the peak and those in the camp figured it was Gardner, perhaps aiding a late party down. This is the name that will be used to identify you within the system. [E]vidence and witness statements suggest that he was using a 98 inch section of 9/16 [inch] blue tubular webbing tied in a loop with a water knot to tether himself to the anchor and that the knot came untied during his attempts to free the stuck rappel device, the park report said. Chuck Pratt. It could fail if shock loaded. Exum chief Nat Partridge conveyed that the loss was a huge tragedy, and that Falks passing will deeply impact the whole climbing/guiding community. The Classic Grand Teton climb is a 4-day program - and it's what sets Exum apart from all other guide services. MOOSE, Wyo. Your e-mail address will be used to confirm your account. It is something AMGA has become aware of largely as a result of this tragic accident, he said. Notifications from this discussion will be disabled. Want to join the discussion? Use the Report link on each Please enter your public display name and a secure password. The Falk family split their time between Ouray, Colorado and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. All data is private and will not be shared with third parties. It is for accessory use only and should never be used for life support! His knot was poorly chosen or tied IF in fact that is what did not prevent him from falling. Turner said it was a natural thing to do and that Gardner had guided the route and climbed it before, alone and without a rope. Gary Falk, 42, was guiding a group of clients down from an ascent of the park's highest peak when he fell. To support or donate to Kate and the boys, see the GoFundMe link with more information here. Ysebaert is the administrator of OSHAs Office of Standards and Compliance. She is also one of only five female guides at North America's oldest guiding company. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of news headlines from the Jackson Hole News&Guide. If Corbets Couloir was a person, he would flirt with your wife, flip you the bird and then drop the line that youve been preparing for all season without a moments hesitation. His body was carried from Valhalla Canyon via long line recovery. "He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be," Santelices said, "especially with kids.". But OSHA, Ysebaert said, doesnt have standards for preventing bear attacks.. No personal attacks. Such versatility and efficiency in the alpine environment is a safety strategy, Patridge said. Climbers use them for a variety of tasks, including tying webbing into sling loops. They were coming back down the Wyoming peak when he . As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. Please turn off your CAPS LOCK. Gary Falk, 42, had been leading climbers to Grand Teton summit, Falk was called "a diligent, professional guide". Exum Mountain. Rules can be specific regarding scaffoldings, hard hats and safety harnesses. This site, like many others, uses cookies to help us improve and customize your experience. [E]vidence and witness statements suggest that he was using a 98 inch section of 9/16 [inch] blue tubular webbing tied in a loop with a water knot to tether himself to the anchor and that the knot came untied during his attempts to free the stuck rappel device, the report said. We rely on loyal members like you to sustain our reporting and grow the WyoFile community. | 2023 Exum Mountain Guides - All Rights Reserved. Two rangers were flown to the scene in a GTNP helicopter to investigate, and after making contact with Falks remains, they called in a recovery team to extricate the body of the highly-respected 12-year veteran mountain guide. Heres wont you dont see in Angus story: Is OSHA doing work the NPS should be doing? Turner is a guide for the Grand Teton National Park in Moose, Wyoming, and is the Exum Mountain Guides' corporate president. With ski fatalities, bear maulings and climbing falls, Teton County is unique in many of those circumstances., Federal rules, which Wyoming enforces, require employers to protect their employees according to certain standards. WyoFile aims to provide you with the tools to make informed decisions by producing independent, unbiased reporting that is free and accessible to all. He was not guiding clients at the time of the fall, said Jack Turner, Exum Mountain Guides president. our own way, be vulnerable and grow.. Gardner left the valley floor Saturday with about four other guides and a group of clients, including youths from Wilderness Ventures. Dont. On July 23rd, 2016 Gary Falk fell to his death during the down climb of a guided trip on the Grand Teton. Teton Climbing Guide is a website developed by Brian Smith, an IFMGA/AMGA Certified American Mountain Guide and Lead Guide for Exum Mountain Guides.Brian is based out of Jackson Hole, Wyoming and has been guiding rock, alpine, ski, and ice climbing trips for Exum Mountain Guides for twelve years, primarily in Grand Teton National Park and the Wind River Wilderness. Calls, and set out for the Mountain Wyoming peak when he we will update this story as information! Guided trip on the descent from the Jackson Hole news & Guide Turner, Exum Mountain guides enjoys an reputation. 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